Dragonfruit Cooler

Dragonfruit is mostly theatre. It tastes faintly of pear and water, which means the flavour has to come from somewhere else, and the colour has to be earned rather than assumed. We press it fresh, cut it with lime, and let blanco tequila carry the actual weight. The result is a tall drink that looks like a postcard and drinks like something considerably more serious.

Build: an ounce and a half blanco tequila, an ounce of fresh dragonfruit purée, three-quarters of an ounce lime, half an ounce agave, topped with soda. Shake everything except the soda, hard and short, then strain into a chilled highball over fresh ice and top. A wheel of lime, a gold straw, nothing else.

A warning worth printing: it goes down like juice. Pace yourself, or don’t, but decide on purpose.